December 15, 2014 at 7:32 pm
My lives been a roller coaster these past few weeks, I had my wallet stolen the day i left Ireland for California! and since that moment its been full speed, with a lot of stress.
I won’t go to into it, but i lost a lot of money along with Credit cards and driving license, standard tragic scenario!!!
but lets not dwell on the negatives, and think on Jaws!!!
Its been a dream to surf that wave since i was little, then seeing Shane Dorian,Mark Healy, Greg Long and Ian Walsh paddle it few years back, got me focused to try one day! Theres so much hype, drama and feeling about Jaws, i had to go see it for myself.
I arrived to maui and jumped straight into a taxi, shouting take me to Peahi!!! On the way i left my bags at Nalukai Lodge, from there i suited up and hit the track down to Jaws. I didn’t know where to paddle out, heart thumping and dehydrated i followed my instincts. My first view from the channel was a 20ft set clean up everybody! skis on the rocks, the whole deal! i was like oh my god!!! welcome to Jaws!!!
Loads of crew got out the water after that huge set, and i found myself out the back with just local DK Walsh.
DK was really cool, passed me some water and called me into a solid left. We surfed together all afternoon with only 5 of us! I thought i was dreaming…
So the next day was bigger, i was first out at dark, and lucked into a solid right. Was my biggest wave of the trip for sure, although i went straight. Always good to survive a crazy beating. Still haven’t seen a shot of it!!! but its in my head, thats what matters.
Ok going to cut this short because Rusty Long wants to go to Baja Mexico for a solid swell tomorrow!!
will keep you posted if we score!!! time to pack and hit the road!!!
The run continues-
November 27, 2014 at 8:17 pm
Its been a hell of a month!!!
Hope the run of epic waves continue!!!
I can’t even think to caption this image of Georges!! Breathtaking photo.
For more beautiful pictures visit www.emerald-vision.com