Mully Mully!!!

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February 24, 2015 at 9:24 am

Alone i watched 20ft barrels roll through,

I’ve waited years for this day!!!

But with nobody around, i thought to myself, maybe this isn’t the time?  But i paddled out anyways!

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edging closer and closer,  I waited for well over an hour,

finally i had a look at this beast,  to scared i pulled back!

 

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Finally some skis turn up, safety has arrived!!!

I turned on the first wave i saw… and here she is!!!

an epic ride!!!

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It was very very shallow, ledgy, and pretty much just crazy.

 

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Thankful to be out in one piece, with memories of a session ill never forget!!!

Till next one…

canaries routine

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February 8, 2015 at 5:31 pm

with no waves in Europe the past few weeks, its been a great opportunity to take some time out.   when i say time out, i mean preparing    of corse. I can never quite rest fully in winter.

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Fuerteventura is the perfect base to stay in shape,  its got everything i need and more.

from trail running, to crossfit, free driving to skateboarding,  its all on your doorstep over here!!!

 

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Ill be back in Ireland on the 20th,  filming for a new series with Lambs Navy Rum.

Am real excited about this project, as theres no clear plan to how things will turn out.  We will follow swells for a few weeks, getting a real feel for goes into what i do.  With a down to earth cool crew behind me, and the latest and greatest equiptement, its a special opportunity for us both!

Im just going to be myself,  let things flow during swells, mainly focusing on the mindset in and around big waves,

and hopefully i can take people on a inspirational journey!!!

until then ill leave you with a Mickey Smith classic picture, One of my favs!    Was after an epic day in west Oz, surfing the Box over 6years back!!! crazy times!

Lowey Walk

Photo Mickey Smith