swell after swell!!!-
March 2, 2015 at 8:31 am
With a two wave set approaching, I thought to myself…if I go one of these bombs then it will be a game changer.
18ft at 17second interval, the speed and mass of water was daunting.To add, the cross shore caused side chops the size of me moving across these 20ft beasts. Paddling out there solo, it’s safe to say I was real scared, the scariest part was the feeling that I might just go one! and the consequences could be heavy.
Its a top to bottom legging vert drop, if you manage to stick that you’ve got to deal with a mutant steppy cloud break style grower.
On my wave ten minutes before this picture, I hit a chop which sent me in the air half way down the face, getting sucked over it was one of my worst wipeouts.
Following that my confidence was low.
Plus your freezing you tits of!!! There’s a reason why all the boys tow it. It’s functional, and you make them.
So I paddled for that first set wave, couldn’t see a thing due to wind. I pulled back again, knowing that the second was way bigger, I felt sick once seeing it.
I paddled as fast I could for the shoulder, taking deep breaths, with a decision to make. Quick release my leash and swim under, or break over the top and get sucked back over. With my Patagonia vest half inflated and no time to deflate, I wouldn’t have penetrated under the water, so my instinct said to get a big breath at the top and just relax once I go over. Long long story short that’s what I did, under for 30secs or so, with the next wave straight on top of me, heavy wipeout but all turned out ok.
I called it a day after that message from nature, or so I thought. Few hours later I was back out there, this time with all the boys. Swell dropped to half the size, so we all shared some epic rides.
Today I feel like I’ve had a round with Tyson! But I learnt so much yesterday that I wouldn’t change it for the world
February 24, 2015 at 9:24 am
Alone i watched 20ft barrels roll through,
I’ve waited years for this day!!!
But with nobody around, i thought to myself, maybe this isn’t the time? But i paddled out anyways!
edging closer and closer, I waited for well over an hour,
finally i had a look at this beast, to scared i pulled back!
Finally some skis turn up, safety has arrived!!!
I turned on the first wave i saw… and here she is!!!
an epic ride!!!
It was very very shallow, ledgy, and pretty much just crazy.
Thankful to be out in one piece, with memories of a session ill never forget!!!
Till next one…