Stormy days!!!

January 9, 2015 at 1:24 pm

Its been a few weeks now to process the Mavericks swell,  but still it keeps me up at night.


With full moons my mind always wonders, my emotions arise uncontrollably, its hard to stay aware. Most important to keep in the now.

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I remember nothing of this moment above,  was purely in the pre session zone. Crazy energy pulsing round the line up!!! what a day.

Just imagine for a second,  how it feels to know that at any moment a storm could approach, meaning that your going to put it all on the line again…not a thought which is settling hey!

But i don’t know any different, not for the past 10years anyways,    its purely what i live for,  the guys above are a few of my heroes, which I’m lucky enough to call friends.  They can’t miss a swell!  there on everything,  and i want to be to!

All i need is a sponsor to support my goals and dreams!

Its a spinout to have ridden in the past month, the biggest and best waves of my career, only to be dropped?

But i can’t let my self dwell on the unimportant things, so i won’t go to into it.  Whats important is to keep pushing my surfing, putting all my energies into what i love most,   and have the belief that things will workout.

So stormy Ireland is what we’ve got, haven’t surfed in a week!!!     I look out my window to 50ft waves!!!

but the bloody wind!  wind!  wind!

I take the time to train in the gym or pool, do my yoga, then rest up for the days to come.

No matter how things turn out, i can say i gave it a go…..theres always light at the end of the tunnel !!!

Lowey trippy nug 1

Photo Mickey Smith


journey of dreams…

December 28, 2014 at 1:31 am

Within hours of exiting the water at Jaws, I’m on a flight back to California,  for what looks like a Mavericks chart!

Rusty Longs waiting for me when i arrive, with a big smile on his face.  Baja here we come!!!  so i repack my gear and hit the road with Chris Ward and photographer Larry Beard for what turned out to be an epic swell.

I have no shots to hand backing up my words, I’m sure they will turn up in the mags mind!!    believe me when i say that the wave Rusty took us to was a-grade. We expected 6 to 10ft slabs, heavy paddle session. But it was 18 to 20ft!   so on our 7’0′s and way under gunned we attempted the impossible.

Rusty caught a huge glassy 20 footer half way through the session,  which blew me away!  one of the gnaryest things I’ve seen. Chris didn’t want to get cleaned up so sat wide and watched. And i caught a handful of 12 to 15ft waves,  we were stoked all round.

To set the scene a little. We had only a small local skiff for saftey,  and were miles offshore, real scary stuff!

big thick crazy waves, sharks lurking under you,  and no help if things turn sour.  So yeah something ill never forget! thats for sure!!!

On top of that your looking at the weather charts all the time, knowing that a monster swell is heading to Mavericks in two days!!

So straight after the surf your on the road again north,  back to San Clemente to repack and go again.  20hours later your in Half Moon bay preparing for the biggest swell in years.

My vocabulary doesn’t allow me to express the feelings involved during that day.  It was like a dream.  Checkout  for the full story!

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thanks Frank Quiarte for the beautiful photo.

Its my last day in California!  gutted!  and i just found our that i didn’t make the big wave world tour trials!!  even more gutted.

but who am i kidding, i just had the trip of my life!  what a journey!

id never have dreamed id one day paddle Jaws and Mavericks!!!

so for now I’m content and happily looking forward to going home…Ireland