Thankful beyond words

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April 22, 2015 at 8:04 am

Just as i start to settle into a flow, a rhythm, of normal daily life here in Cornwall.  I bump into an old friend, who offers to send me on any swell i wish!!!  Thanks to The Hub St,Ives, and the Hubox, I could do what i love the most, chase crazy waves!!!

So with a swell approaching Ireland the next day, i hit the road once again.

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My hero and friend Shane Dorian had been hitting me up all winter for Irish charts, waiting for a perfect swell to come.

I gave him the green light,  and was stoked when the waves delivered!!!  Alieens was 10feet and as perfect as you could imagine.

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Above a few images by Mickey Smith, moments of pure nature.

In just two days we scored some of the best conditions I’ve witnessed.

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To surf my local waves, alongside Dorian was a dream beyond words.

Until next swell…

Back to reality

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April 3, 2015 at 7:52 am

Finally i return home,  after 7months on the road.

from Cali to Mex, Hawaii to Scotland and finishing up where it all started in ireland.

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To many great experiences, that i can’t begin to go into.  Let Mickey Smiths photos tell the storys.

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Rusty and i cold,amped and scared,  pre surf,  sussing out boards.

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Im now home in cornwall saving for my next adventure, which i plan on being Mexico ‘puerto escondido’

Its a needed break from all those crazy waves, a time of friends and family, which is so important to me.

Until something happens worth writing about…live for the present moment people,   follow your heart, dreams and goals,  have faith that the rest will fall into place.  And as cheesy as that sounds, its the truth.  look within or live without!!!

For more of Mickeys amazing skills checkout  www.mickeysmith.ie