February 24, 2015 at 9:24 am
Alone i watched 20ft barrels roll through,
I’ve waited years for this day!!!
But with nobody around, i thought to myself, maybe this isn’t the time? But i paddled out anyways!
edging closer and closer, I waited for well over an hour,
finally i had a look at this beast, to scared i pulled back!
Finally some skis turn up, safety has arrived!!!
I turned on the first wave i saw… and here she is!!!
an epic ride!!!
It was very very shallow, ledgy, and pretty much just crazy.
Thankful to be out in one piece, with memories of a session ill never forget!!!
Till next one…
February 8, 2015 at 5:31 pm
with no waves in Europe the past few weeks, its been a great opportunity to take some time out. when i say time out, i mean preparing of corse. I can never quite rest fully in winter.
Fuerteventura is the perfect base to stay in shape, its got everything i need and more.
from trail running, to crossfit, free driving to skateboarding, its all on your doorstep over here!!!
Ill be back in Ireland on the 20th, filming for a new series with Lambs Navy Rum.
Am real excited about this project, as theres no clear plan to how things will turn out. We will follow swells for a few weeks, getting a real feel for goes into what i do. With a down to earth cool crew behind me, and the latest and greatest equiptement, its a special opportunity for us both!
Im just going to be myself, let things flow during swells, mainly focusing on the mindset in and around big waves,
and hopefully i can take people on a inspirational journey!!!
until then ill leave you with a Mickey Smith classic picture, One of my favs! Was after an epic day in west Oz, surfing the Box over 6years back!!! crazy times!
Photo Mickey Smith