October 21, 2014 at 9:30 am
Looking into this beast i thought we were in for a session to remember! waves like this don’t come along to often!
However nature dictates as always…. and after only 45mins the wind changed direction and it was all over! to dangerous to even think about padding into. so that was that! At least I ended up putting my head down and getting a few solid ones, no barrels but stoked to make this drop. Also good friend Rusty Long flew in for the swell, and even though it didn’t turn out like planned, he was super stoked to be in waves like these! he also packed a sick one!
Never a good run of swell without Rileys! so good to be back!
And the break of dreams to top a good morning of barrels! life doesn’t get much better than this!!!
October 14, 2014 at 7:33 am
Its been fun since arriving back in the motherland!
Ireland that is, so more swells on the way, i got to go get my boards from Tom Doidge now, a local chapter who’s the man when it comes to your Aliens quiver.
Was great to shoot with Mickey Smith again, and to hangout with my old best buddy! been to long! now he’s a rockstar in Ben Howards band!!! haha!
ill bust some shots from the swell in the next days, oh and I’m still living in my van! which is great but freezing! need to get myself a heater badly!